Utterly Beguiling – the Cinque Terre

Italy’s Cinque Terre took my top spot in our power rankings and top three overall. While Spain has a firm grip on my soul, and I fell in love with Budapest, the Cinque Terre managed to claim a piece of me as well. My one and only journal entry, scribbled in brief, while exploring the coastal trails between the five villages:

I don’t know what to say. I am utterly in love. More in love than anywhere, ever. So much, it pains me. The sounds, sights, tastes, feel and smell…I can hardly stand it. This is my happy place – the happiest of happy. I could grow old here. I never want to leave.

Can you really blame me…img_3091

We spent four sun-drenched days in the Cinque Terre, and easily could have stayed more if time allowed. (Time…that mischievous trickster.) We based ourselves in the village of Corniglia, the only one without direct access to the sea (unless you count the 382 steps up from the train). Rather Corniglia is set high above the Mediterranean surrounded by vibrant, terraced vineyards. You can see our appeal.img_2859

We stayed at a quaint, clean and spacious hotel,  Il Carugio di Corniglia. It was in the center of town, featured a stunning rooftop deck available only to the hotel guests and even offered guest parking – a necessity for us road trippers. Aside from the rooftop terrace, the highlight of the hotel was its owner, Lidia. She provided us with treats in the room, helped us navigate our way through the one road town to our parking space (which may seem trivial, but believe me, this was crucial), and she also spent time sitting with us, sharing maps, books and suggested routes for our hikes. Her insights allowed us to make the most of our brief time.img_2979

Now the drive up to Corniglia is not for the faint of heart. Honestly if I ever live there, or even go back to vacation, I will only use the trains. They are a much less dramatic way in and out of the five villages, and extremely efficient. That said, Mike did an excellent job navigating the narrow, windy roads and dodging the on-coming traffic that often appeared barreling at you from around a blind corner. The trip up and down were the only things I didn’t love about our stay, but we managed to see a few phenomenal views (when I stopped panicking for a moment anyway). And once settled, we only traveled by train and trails to make our way between towns.img_3078

The Cinque Terre itself is a group of five villages along the Italian Riviera: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterossa al Mare. The coastline, villages and hillsides are part of the Cinque Terre National Park and are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The villages are centuries old and brimming with vineyards, cafes, harbors and stunning views. I cannot describe the utter amazement I had looking in every direction. It was almost more than I could handle; it was visually overwhelming.

img_3186

Views from Riomaggiore

I never imagined a place this picturesque could be real. And not only real, but endearingly humble. This is not a showy seaside destination where people come to see and be seen. While not lacking for tourists, the Cinque Terre is somehow less touristy. It’s relaxed. Mellow even.

img_3155

Manarola’s Main Street

Each village has its own distinctive draw, but all were friendly, welcoming and moving to a familiar, yet uniquely beguiling rhythm. It was strange to pack into these small trains with hundreds of people, all hot and smashed together, speaking a handful of different languages, only to emerge to relatively quiet towns where the clanking of dishes and the ringing of church bells were the most notable sounds.

img_3016

The hillsides of Corniglia

The trails were also peaceful. Despite drawing an increasing number of tourists, we found the hikes much less crowded than those in Rocky Mountain National Park and Yellowstone. We would occasionally pass (or be passed by) other hikers, most of whom would offer greetings, but much of the time we happily marched along, just the four of us, with unobstructed views and Miss A’s chatter.img_3143

We hiked every day despite the exhaustion from our travels. We couldn’t help but be pulled back out each morning to see what new views we could uncover. Besides, when you can end a hike resting by the sea, why not?!

img_2993

The beaches of Monterossa

But it wasn’t all about the sights and sounds. We did spend a fair bit of time enjoying the splendors of the area’s food and wine. Among the highlights: seafood, gelato, pesto, local white wines and even a red from our home village of Corniglia. We also had the good fortune to partake in the Feast of St. Peter and St. Paul! I have a hard time believing we were only there for four days. With much thanks to Lidia’s recommendations, we were able to deeply immerse ourselves in the Cinque Terre’s culture.

img_3106-2

Aside from having the most beautiful hikes we’ve experienced anywhere in the world, there is no other place where I have had such vivid images and feelings of spending my golden years. Perhaps it was the way the Cinque Terre overtakes all of your senses, but I honestly could see myself waking up with my cup of coffee as I looked out over the village, before setting off on my daily hike. I’d then return home, to Corniglia, stopping to chat with neighbors along the path into town, spend my afternoon writing or reading, and my evenings among friends in the cafes, the square or even my own kitchen. And I would most certainly fall asleep to the comforting sounds of dishes being cleaned and sorted, the last of the church bells singing their prayers, and the eventual silence and still of the Cinque Terre night. The scenes, all imaginary, were almost tangible.

img_2966

Hiking into Vernazza

We are hardly alone in our high-esteem for this beautiful slice off the earth. The Cinque Terre has wooed many a traveler, and no doubt will, for all of time…img_3108

Time, that trickster that seems to move even more mysteriously in this wondrous seaside paradise. img_3141

 

La vita è un sogno.

26 thoughts on “Utterly Beguiling – the Cinque Terre”

  2. wanderlynn says:
    Reply

    I’m glad you had a lovely time! My family just visited this weekend and it was so crowded I couldn’t really get a feel for the tastes and smells and authenticity. Perhaps because we stayed in La Spezia instead of one of the villages? It is absolutely beautiful anyway!

    Like

  8. Friend Sue says:
    Reply

    I agree. It reminded me of Lake Como as well. I’ve been looking forward to reading about your time here. I can’t wait to read more about your Italian adventures!

    Liked by 1 person

  10. Raymund says:
    Reply

    I always wanted to go there but I heard some articles that they are not what it looks like on photos as most of the photographers saturate the colours of those buildings so it looks vibrant. But after reading this post regardless of whats the colours of those houses looks like there are other things to enjoy. Love the article!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Kristy says:
      Reply

      You would love it Raymund. The colors are stunning without saturation. Maybe not as vivid as in some photos you see out there, but colorful nonetheless, especially with the sky, water and hillside. It’s visually stunning.

      Like

  11. Cris says:
    Reply

    Hello from Italy! I live near Cinque Terre and I know very well the places you describe. It’s always interesting to read the opinions of foreigners, and I’m glad that you enjoyed your family trip! Great photos you took! Cris

    Liked by 1 person

  14. Eha says:
    Reply

    Thru’ a wineglass brightly 🙂 ! – Have rapped my knuckles many a time thinking how oft we spent weeks on the other side of the border without even a thought for this now so famous discovery tour . . . it would so have appealed and I so understand your love affair . . .

    Liked by 1 person

  15. Eva Taylor says:
    Reply

    What an idyllic place Kristy, I’m so happy you shared it with us. The scenes from your hotel remind me a little of the place we stayed in Italy, on Lake Como. Our hotel was only accessible by cog train. The drive is quite familiar, hairpin turns and very little space for two cars let alone a truck and a car. We (me) had a white-knuckle drive like that in San José, in my cousin’s little town, where we stayed in September.

    Liked by 1 person

Thank you for commenting!